Visiting the Basque Country

San Sebastian pintxos bars

“Pintxos tend to be more complicated than tapas — far more so in many cases — and involve much more effort in the way of elaboration and ingredients. Their production has become an art form, with bars competing fiercely amongst themselves for ever more elaborate and delicious creations.
The word ‘pintxos’ comes from the Spanish verb ‘pinchar’, which means ‘to pierce’ as many were traditionally pierced with a toothpick, to keep whatever the snack is made of from falling off the bread. It is also a smart way for the waiter to keep track of the number of tapas the customer has eaten — in many bars you will see locals simply pop the cleaned toothpicks in their top pocket as a running bar tab.
Pintxos lovers might describe their food as individual snacks made of a combination of multiple ingredients combined together. While tapas are simply smaller servings of a given dish, and perhaps with just a single ingredient, it would be impossible for a traditional pintxo to be prepared as a bigger serving. You can, and do, share tapas. You don’t share pintxos.
Otherwise, the art of eating pintxos — el txikiteo — is pretty much the same concept as tapeo: moving from one bar to another, eating a little, drinking a little, talking a lot. Whether you’re out de tapeo or de txiketeo, the main thing is that you have to enjoy the food in the company of others.” — Pura Aventura

The best part of San Sebastian is hopping from one pintxos bar to another in Parte Vieja. Plan to do this for at least 2 nights, though there are so many good places, you could eat there for a week. Try to stay at a place that’s close to or in Parte Vieja.

Marti Buckley has a good blog on The Best of San Sebastián. Though for Parte Vieja, you can just use Google Maps reviews as it’s more convenient to use and there are so many bars there.

San Sebastian activities

La Concha beach. Viewed from Urgull hill.

There are a lot of walks and hikes you can do from San Sebastian. Plenty to keep you busy for days.

La Concha beach is beautiful, and right next to Parte Vieja.

Walk up to Urgull hill.

Monte Ulía hike, around 4 hours

Petritegi Cider House

Near San Sebastian, you’ll need to take a taxi there.

“No one really tells you what to do when you first arrive at a sagardotegi, or traditional Basque cider house, especially if you don’t speak Basque. You’re simply given a glass, led to one of the long wooden tables in a vast room, and immediately served a plate of chorizo, followed by a cod omelet. It’s left up to you to figure out how to get a drink.

We learned that when a guy with a bucket yells “txotx!” (pronounced “CHOACH”) that means he’s about to open the tap on one of dozens of huge 13,000-liter barrels, shooting out a thin stream of cider. You’re supposed to stand up from your meal, get in line, and hold your glass at just the right angle to catch a few fingers of cider from that hissing stream. You drink the small amount in your glass and then follow the cidermaker to the next barrel.” — New York Times

This was my third time at Petritegi, where they serve one of the best steaks. Just a T-bone, not an expensive cut, but it’s aged and they don’t trim off the fat and gristle. Aged beef fat develops a rich funky flavor, similar to the naturally fermented cider. They also make a good fish.

Truly one of my favorite gastronomic experiences in the world.

High-end dining in the Basque Country

The 3 Michelin stars in Spain are probably the best value in the world. Cheaper and better than the US, UK, France, Italy.

I’ve been to every 3- and 2-star in the Basque Country. These are my favorites, in order, and the last year I ate there:

1. Azurmendi, 2014. The only 3 star in Bilbao. New building with a nice view. They can do a vegetarian menu.
2. Akelarre, San Sebastian, 2013. Excellent view of the sea.
3. Asador Etxebarri, 2016. You’ll need to rent a car to get there.
4. Mugaritz, San Sebastian, 2014
5. Martín Berasategui, San Sebastian, 2015
6. Arzak, San Sebastian, 2013

Bilbao

Bilbao airport is an architectural masterpiece by Santiago Calatrava

While San Sebastian is certainly the star of the Basque Country, its small airport mostly only flies to other cities in Spain, so you’ll need to fly through Bilbao airport. There’s a 2 hour bus from Bilbao airport to San Sebastian.

Guggenheim Museum. If you don’t really like modern art, then skip going inside the museum. The building is much more interesting than its art, and you can just walk around the outside of the building.

While you’re in Bilbao, you can visit the Guggenheim Museum. The rest of the city is a little boring, though there are plenty of great restaurants. Spend 1 or 2 nights in Bilbao.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

Lonely Planet article. You’ll need to rent a car

Links

My Google Map for the Basque Country